Tuesday, February 13, 2018

Gallatin Scarf - Knitting Pattern

The Gallatin Scarf

Knitting Pattern


Now available HERE

“Gallatin Scarf” named after the beautiful Gallatin Valley where I live, it is the first scarf in a series of 3 to be published on my blog. Worked from the bottom up, this scarf works up fairly quickly using worsted weight yarn and size 10 1/2 needles. A simple repeat in the pattern makes this fairly mindless - a great car project.
My finished scarf was approximately 82” x 10”.
This pattern was fully tested by a great team of testers here on Ravelry.
I didn’t even block mine, just lightly steamed the stockinette/reverse stockinette stripes to get them to lay a bit flatter.
As with all my patterns, feel free to make and sell as many as you’d like.
These make great craft show items.

Friday, February 2, 2018

Bridger Cowl Pattern - Language Versions

Click on a link below, choose the language you want your pattern to be.....
You can then download or print from there.  If this does not work for you, you may try switching from Firefox to Internet Explorer or vice versa.  Worst case senario you can copy and paste the directions into a word doc and print it out.  Enjoy!

English - Bridger Cowl Pattern

Spanish - Bridger Cowl Pattern

Polish - Bridger Cowl Pattern

Portuguese - Bridger Cowl Pattern


Sunday, May 21, 2017

Cutie Cupcake Dolls - Free Knitting Pattern!

I saw this posted on a Facebook group - this is so cute I just had to ask if I could put her pattern notes on my blog.  

Cutie Cupcake Dolls Pattern by Kristy Roberts

(published with permission)

Materials:

DK yarn
size 3 (3.25mm) Needles 


Abbreviations:

CO = cast on
KFB = knit in front and back (this is an increase)
p =purl
k =knit
Stst = stockinette stitch (knit one row, then purl the next row)
K2tog = knit 2 stitches together (this is a decrease)



 ©Kristy Roberts 2017

http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Chippyrabbit/cutie-cupcake-dolls

*This is knitted flat, starting at the bottom and working upward.
Base of cupcake
1. CO 6 sts 
2. KFB across. [12 sts]
3. P 
4. *KFB, K1 repeat from * across. [18 sts] 
5. P 
6. *KFB, K1 repeat from * across. [27 sts] 
7. P 
8. *KFB, K2 repeat from * across. [36 sts] 
9. P 
10. *KFB, K2 repeat from * across. [49 sts] 
11. Knit (to create fold line)
Skirt 
1-18. Work 18 rows in K1, P1 to create rib. 
19. Bind off in purl (firmly).
Body 
1. Pick up and K 36 stitches on wrong side opposite fold line. 
2-4. Stst 3 rows 
5. *k4, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
6. Stst 3 rows. 
7. *k3, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
8. P 
9. *k1, k2tog, repeat from * across.

**change to head color 
1. Stst 3 rows. 
2. *Kfb, k1, repeat from * across. 
3. P 
4. *Kfb, k1, repeat from * across. 
5. Stst 7 rows 
6. *K4, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
7. P 
8. *K3, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
9. P 
10. *K1, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
11. P 
12. K2tog across.
13. Cut yarn leaving a tail to thread thru darning needle and gather remaining stitches. 
14. Sew on eyes and face detail.
15. Sew seams and stuff to your desired fullness. 
16. Sew on hair.

Arms - 
1. CO 8 sts.
2-9. Stst 8 rows. 

*Change to hand color 
10. K across. 
11. P across. 
12. *K1, k2tog repeat from * across to last 2 sts, k2.  [6 sts] 
13. P 
14.  Cut yarn leaving a tail to thread thru darning needle and gather remaining stitches. 
15. Sew on arms.

Cupcake hat. 
CO 38 sts. 
1-4. K1, p1 (rib) for 4 rows.

*Change color 
5. K 
6. *PFB, K2, repeat from * across.  
7. K 
8. P 
9. *K2tog, YO, repeat from * across.  
10. P 
11. K 
12. Pick up stitch from first new color row and P2tog across.
13-16. Stst 4 rows. 
14. *K3, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
15. P 
16. k2, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
17. P 
18. k1, k2tog, repeat from * across. 
19. P 
20. K2tog across. 
21.  Cut yarn leaving a tail to thread thru darning needle and gather remaining stitches.
22. Sew seam.
23. Sew on pretty "sprinkles" using other colored yarns.  -I supposed tiny beads could be used as an option for the sprinkles.

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Saturday, April 29, 2017

My Sideways Pullover - Knitting Machine rendition


I liked the look of a hand knit pattern called Jujuba, it is a free pattern on the Berroco website.  http://www.berroco.com/patterns/jujuba



I wanted to make this on my knitting machine.  You need a long length machine to make this as there is over 200 needles at work at times.  I used my Brother KX350 (mid-gauge), I have 2 of them joined together.  I suppose the Ultimate Sweater Machines, LK-150's or any other machines, that folks have joined together, could also be used.  I write this out not as one of my patterns, simply to tell you how I made mine on the machine.  I am a 36" bust size, typically wear size medium, my height is 5'7".  This fit me perfectly.  Hope this helps someone else out that may want to make this pattern on their knitting machine.  

Tension set at 5.  

Yarn: 2/2 Cotton. (Sport weight?) see more yarn info at the bottom of this post.

Gauge: 19 sts x 26 rows = 4". 

This sweater is made in 2 sections.

Right Section

Sleeve: RC000. Cast on 53 sts, knit 6 rows. 
Inc Rows:  Inc at each end, knit 1 row.  [55 sts].  
Rep this inc every 6th row, 11 times more – [75 sts].  RC066.  Work even for 10  more rows, end with carriage on the right.  RC076.
Set RC000.   
Next Row: Cast on 74 sts at beginning of this row and at the beginning of next row. [223 total sts]          Knit 38 rows.  RC038.  
*a note on casting on that many stitches at the beginning of the row, I find that the latch tool cast on works best.
Divide for Neck: 
Set RC000.  Place left-most 112 sts in Hold position, leaving right-most 111 stitches in work.  Set carriage hold buttons.  
Back:  Knit 2 rows.
Dec Rows:  Using 3-prong tool and FF decrease, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge.  Rep this dec every other row 4 times more.  [106 sts.]  Work even until RC032.  Remove these 106 sts with waste yarn. 
Front:  RC000.  Put the right-most 112 stitches in work position, and take carriage off of hold.   Knit 3 rows.
Dec Rows: Using 3-prong tool and FF decrease, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge.  Rep this dec every other row 13 times more.  [98 sts.]  Work even until RC032.  Remove these 98 sts with waste yarn.  **IMPORTANT** Mark this as your Front section as it is confusing when you go to seam if you haven't marked it. 

Left Section:

Work same as right side only make sure to mirror it. 


Finishing

Sl 106 sts of each back section onto two 29” length circular needles.  Hold pieces together with WS together.  Perform a 3-needle bind off.  Join front sections in the same manner. 
Seam under arms and sides using any method you prefer.  I like using mattress stitch.
On the cherry sweater I picked up and knit 4 rows of ribbing on the sleeves, hem, and neck edge.  -but this is optional.  I liked the way it looked.  A single crochet edge would also look nice.   On the green sweater I did 4 rows of ribbing on the cuffs, 2" of ribbing on the hem, and no ribbing on the neckline.

----------
*A note on my yarn choice (cherry color), Conshocken Cotton Softball.  I loved the look when I first had it all made up. ....then I washed and dried it.  ugh.  The yarn lost a lot of color and dulled down quite a bit.  Not totally loving it.  I do love how the pattern made up though and will definitely make this again!

My second one, the green is made with 1 strand of Denys Brunton "Magicolor" yarn, and 1 strand of 2/24 acrylic, heather gray color.   This one washed up nicely and I dried it in the machine about 75% then laid out flat for the rest of the drying.  Pleased with the results.

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Friday, February 3, 2017

Oatmeal hat

OATMEAL SLOUCHY BEANIE



I am suddenly obsessed with the camel stitch (a hdc that is performed in the 3rd loop).  This beanie is made with all hdc camel stitches.  You begin working the band on one side of the round, then you'll turn as you would at the end of a row worked flat, turn the beanie inside out, and work on the other side for the whole rest of the hat.  This will give you a ridge-y ribbing look to the band and a bumpy oatmeal texture to the body of the hat.  Super super simple once you understand the camel stitch of working in that 3rd loop.  

Materials:

Size "I" (5.5mm) hook
Yarn - worsted weight approx. 140-150 yds

References:



  • Hdc decrease (please note that she demonstrates this as a regular hdc, not camel stitch version, you will need to do this decrease as a camel stitch in the 3rd loops.)  Also keep watching her video to the middle point as she says a preferred way that she does this - I use the same method and it is less bulky in appearance.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ngoj60GnNM

DIRECTIONS:


Ch64, join in the round with a slip st in the first chain.
1. Ch1 then hdc in same ch, hdc in each ch across, join by slst into top of first hdc.[64 hdc]

2. Ch1, then hdc in the back (third) loop to perform "camel stitch" (see video above under references if you don't know how to do this.) Proceed to hdc camel stitch in each hdc around.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
3. Repeat round 2 until you have worked 1.75-2" (whatever width you like the look of).

4.  Ch1 then turn the work so that you are working on the other (inside) of the round - I actually just turn the hat inside out at this point.  Hdc (regular hdc, not camel stitch - for this row only) in same stitch as join then in the back loop of each st around, slip st into the top of the first hdc.

5. Work hdc camel stitches in each st on every round until pc measure 9" from beginning chain.
6. Ch1, then *work 6 hdc camel st, now work a hdc camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
7. Ch1, then *work 5 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
8. Ch1, then *work 4 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
9. Ch1, then *work 3 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
10. Ch1, then *work 2 hdc camel st, now work a hdc  camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.

Please note, It will get a bit tight working in this small amount of stitches but can be done.

11. Ch1, then *work 1 hdc camel st, now work a hdc camel decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
12. Ch1, then *work a hdc camel stitch decrease over the next 2 sts. (also worked in that back third loop as camel stitch), rep from * to end of round.  Join with slst in top of first hdc.
13. Cut yarn leaving 8" tail and thread thru the last stitch to close it, then with a darning needle and yarn tail, weave the yarn tail thru each of the tops of the hdc's, cinch tight and tie off.   Cut yarn a bit shorter and weave in yarn tail.
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Wednesday, December 7, 2016

Santa's Hearthside Slippers for Women





Ho ho ho!  I can finally use my arm - tendonitis has kept me from knitting the last month or so.  To try it out again I knit these Santa slippers just in time for Christmas.  Based somewhat on my Better Dorm Boots pattern they were quick to write up.  

These slippers are knit flat and seamed at the end.  There are yo's creating holes in which to thread your tie (santa's belt) through.  I made the tie by simply crocheting a chain.  If you don't crochet at all you could use icord, ribbon, or a fabric strip.   These knit up very quickly!  You still have time to make them, then wear them when you sneak down the tree in the middle of the night to deliver presents.  Lol!  You can make these non-holiday too of course by using other colors. 

Merry Christmas Everyone!

--------------------------

Materials:  

Worsted weight yarn (use 2 strands of worsted held tog.)
Sole: 92(100,114,120) yds
   
Slipper body: 92(110,124,130) yds
                       
U.S. Size 9 needles (5.5mm)
U.S. Size H crochet hook (for chaining the tie)
2 stitch markers


Wms Sizes: Sm (6-7.5), M(8-9), L(9.5-10.5), XL (11-12)



Gauge: 14 sts = 4” in Stockinette (w yarn held double)

Abbreviations:
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • yo = yarn over
  • sl-1 = slip one
  • PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
  • p2tog = purl 2 together
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit (see how to perform one of these descreases if you don't know, google it)
  • WS = wrong side
  • RS = right side
  • PM = place marker

Directions 

Starting with Sole:

Using sole color, Cast on 47(50,52,55) sts using a long-tail method and with 2 strands held together.



Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: K1, yo, k22(23,24,25) yo, k1(2,2,3), yo, k22(23,24,25) yo, k1.   [51(54,56,59) 
 sts]
 

Row 3 and all odd rows: Knit.  *knit the yo’s through the back of the loop. 
Row 4: K2, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k3(4,4,5), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k2.  [55(58,60,63)sts]

Row 6: K3, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k5(6,6,7), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k3.  [59(62,64,67)sts]
Row 8: K4, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k7(8,8,9), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k4. [63(66,68,71) sts]

Row 10: K5, yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k9(10,10,11), yo, k22(23,24,25), yo, k5.  [67(70,72,75)sts]
 
Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: k6, yo, k27, kfb, k27, yo, k6. [70sts]

Row 12: Sizes M and L ONLY: K6, yo, k(23,24), yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, (k23,24), yo, k6. [75,77 sts]
Row 12: Size XL ONLY: K6, yo, k32, yo, k31, yo, k6.  [78 sts]

Row 13: Size Sm and M ONLY proceed to #1 of foot.              
Row 13: Sizes L and XL ONLY: Knit  (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)
Row 14: Size L ONLY: Proceed to #1 of foot.
Row 14: Size XL ONLY: Knit
  ------------------------

FOOT 
Change color now if making foot different color than sole.
Row 1: Size Sm ONLY:  (RS)  Knit. (knit the yo's through the back of the loop)

Row 1: Size M ONLY: (RS) Knit (knit the yo’s through the back of the loop)
Row 1: Sizes L and XL ONLY: (RS) Knit.

Row 2: (WS) P31(33,34,34), PM, p8(9,9,10), PM, p31(33,34,34).

Row 3: K24(26,27,27), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9,10), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k24(26,27,27). [62(67,69,70)sts) 
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: K20(22,23,23), ssk 2x, k3tog, k8(9,9,10), sl-1, k2tog, psso, k2tog 2x, k20(22,23,23). 54(59,61,62)sts]
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: K31(34,35,36), ssk,
 turn.    [53(58,60,61) sts]

Row 8: Sl-1, p8(9,9,10), p2tog,
 turn.   [52(57,59,60) sts]
Row 9: Sl-1, k8(9,9,10), ssk, turn.
  [51(56,58,59) sts] 
Row 10: Sl-1, p8(9,9,10), p2tog, turn.  [50(55,57,58) sts]

Row 11: (RS) Sl-1, k8(9,9,10), ssk, DON’T TURN, k19(21,22,22).   [49(54,56,57)sts]
Row 12: Size Sm ONLY: p1, p2tog, p2tog, p23, p2tog, p14, p2tog, p2tog, p1.  [44(-,-) sts]

Row 12: Sizes M, L, XL ONLYp1, p2tog, p2tog, p-(26,27,28), p2tog, p-(16,17,17) p2tog, p2tog, p1.  [-(49,51,52) sts]

  
    Row 12A: Sizes L and XL ONLY: Knit.

    Row 12B: Sizes L and XL ONLY: Purl.
  
Row 13: Size Sm ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 13: Sizes M ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 13: Sizes L ONLY: Removing markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last  st, k1.
Row 13: Size XL ONLYRemoving markers as you come to them, k2, *[yo, k2tog] rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.


Row 14: Purl. *if changing color for the rolled edge, change color now.
Row 15: K16(19,20,20), k2tog, k2, k2tog 2x, k2(2,2,2), k2tog, k16(19,20,20).    [40(45,47,48) sts]

Row 16:  Purl.

Row 17: Knit.
Row 18: Purl.
Row 19: Bind off knit-wise.

-------------------------------

TIE 

Using your crochet hook and a single strand of whatever color you choose to be your tie, chain 100(105, 110,114).   Starting at front center, weave the tie in and out of holes made by the row of yo's.  Try the slipper on and tie to a tightness you like.  I tied mine once and never untied it again. 
( I don't re-tie it every time I put the slipper on.)
If you don't crochet at all you can use icord, ribbon, shoelace, strip of fabric, etc. 

Sew seam using single strand of matching color(s).  I turn the slipper inside out and seam using a simple whipstitch.  Take care to make your stitches small and close together for best results. 
Weave in any loose ends. 
Wear and enjoy!

P.S. I lightly spray the bottoms of my slippers with the spray version of "Plasti-Dip" for a non-skip sole.
 


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